Do-it-yourself greenhouse and greenhouse from a profile pipe

Good day.

When you decide to build a greenhouse, the first question that arises is: what material to use? In this article, I decided to review the self-production of a greenhouse from a durable profile pipe. With it, you can make a reliable frame that will last for many years.

On the Internet you can find many tips for assembling the structure, but most experts describe the manufacturing process from a pipe, but not a profile one.

It must be understood that the profile pipe, in contrast to the traditional counterpart, has a rectangular or square shape.

Despite the small weight, this material is quite durable. If you plan to make an arched greenhouse, it is recommended to use a profile of 40 × 20. For jumpers, a pipe with dimensions of 20 × 20 is better.

Profile Pipe Advantages

• Durability.
• Large selection of coverage.
• Simple mount.
• Easy assembly.
• An opportunity to make a design of any form.

The only difficulty may be bending the material. In this case, you need to accurately bend one pipe, and then use it as a template. It must first be filled with sand.

We make a homemade greenhouse from a profile pipe and polycarbonate

There are several options for the forms of the greenhouse, but I decided to stop on the review of the manufacture of arched type. If there are small skills in such work, then there should be no problems with the assembly.

When choosing a place for the future greenhouse, you need to take into account the maximum illumination, so it should look strictly south. Surface differences should not exceed 10 cm.

For the manufacture of arches, you need to prepare a profile with a cross section of 20 × 40 in the amount of 10 pcs (profile pipe). The approximate length of the pipes should be 5.8 m (you can immediately cut upon purchase, or take 6-meter pipes). For the formation of arcs, it is recommended to use a pipe bender, if you do it by hand, it will be difficult to achieve high accuracy.

For the jumpers of the frame, you need to prepare a profile with a cross section of 20 × 20 mm in an amount of 40 pcs. The length of the pipes is 67 cm.

Using pegs and rope, mark the future structure. To achieve an even design, you need to check the markings diagonally.

Dig a pit to a depth of 80 cm, and then pour cement mortar to the level of a longitudinal base, the height of which should be about 15 cm.

In the next step, the transverse bases are welded to the longitudinal ones. To give strength and reliability, it is recommended to use metal corners.

Lay out a brick under the base; if necessary, a small groove can be made for masonry.

Before the construction of the frame, you need to lay out the sheets of polycarbonate, lay the arcs on top and circle the marker. You can cut the material with a construction knife, while leaving a margin of about 2 cm.

When the solution has completely hardened, proceed with the installation of the frame from the profile pipe. To the longitudinal bases you need to weld the first arch.

It is important to note that the installation of the first and last arch is a responsible action, so it is recommended to use a plumb line.

With the help of jumpers, the remaining arches are sequentially welded. Experts recommend starting to weld the arc to the upper jumper. After the last arch is installed, you need to weld the end bridges from the profile with a section of 20 × 20, since they do not carry a large load.

Polycarbonate is attached to the structure using special screws with washers. Before sheathing, remove the protective film from the sheets. The first piece should protrude beyond the design by about 15 cm.

After fixing the polycarbonate, you need to cut holes for the windows and doors. All joints must be treated with silicone.

The service life of such a homemade greenhouse is more than 10 years. However, the design does not require any maintenance.

Greenhouse drawing and assembly (video)

When preparing a drawing of a greenhouse design, it is important to consider that the pipe has standard sizes from 3 to 12 m. Therefore, you need to find out this point from the seller. This will avoid overpayments and work without scraps.

Important! The cross section of the profile pipe for the main parts should be 20 × 40, as well as 20 × 20 for the connecting elements.

The following data should be indicated on the diagram:

• Foundation.
• Vertical racks.
• Roof construction.
• Top harness.
• Window and door.
• Spacers.

First of all, you need to determine the distance between the uprights. Experts recommend 1 m. In the case when the greenhouse is supposed to be covered with plastic wrap, the distance can be reduced to 0.6 m. This is necessary to reduce the load on the pipe. If you want to increase the distance, then you need additional reinforcement.

To create an arch-shaped greenhouse, a slightly different approach is needed. After all, here you need to correctly bend the profile pipe at a certain angle. If it is assumed that the height of the greenhouse will be 2 m, then you need to purchase a 12-meter pipe. The distance between the arcs, it is recommended to do no more than one meter.

All arcs are attached to each other, in addition, to secure the structure on each side, you will need to use a profile. In seme indicate additional struts on the fronts.

It should be understood that, if necessary, any details can be made from the pipe, therefore it is possible to create a single-slope, triangular, spherical shape of the future greenhouse.

You probably understand that the construction will turn out quite heavy, so you need to prepare the foundation. The foundation is made at the discretion of the owner of the land. It is recommended to immediately insert anchors into the cement mortar, to which the frame is welded for reinforcement.

The build process is simple:

1. For vertical posts, cut the profile pipe to the required size.
2. Weld vertical racks to the base, while using the building level.
3. On top of the racks you need to fix the stroke.
4. Take measurements and cut parts for vertical posts.
5. To connect and fix all racks across cross bars.
6. Make a door and install in the intended place.

Some gardeners and gardeners prefer to make a frame on the ground, and then fix it on the foundation. To avoid distortions, such work should only be done on a flat surface.

To independently make an arch-shaped greenhouse from a profile pipe, the use of a pipe bender will be required. In its absence, for bending, you must perform the following steps:

• Cut the material to the desired length.
• Make cuts.
• Bend the pipe.

In this case, experts recommend starting the assembly from two sides. This allows you to achieve structural strength.

After mounting the frame, you need to fix the polycarbonate. But there are several nuances:

• The front side is the one on which the protective film is applied.
• The sheets need to be fixed with self-tapping screws with a rubber hat.
• Between themselves, the sheets are connected by metal plates.
• Joints are treated with sealant.
• After fixing the material, remove the protective film.

I also recommend watching a video on the topic:

Advantages and disadvantages of greenhouses and hotbeds from a profile pipe

Homemade greenhouses and hotbeds from the profile have the following advantages:

• withstand high mechanical loads,
• they transmit light well, therefore they are suitable for growing even light-loving plants,
• differ in the long operational term (not less than 30 years),
• not subject to fire,
• have mobility (they can be disassembled, moved, reassembled, add additional sections, etc.),
• are available (profile pipes can be purchased at any hardware store),
• facilitate installation of communications from within the structure (automatic watering, heating, power supply).

But still, such structures have disadvantages:

• At the design stage, you need to consider a solid foundation, because the frame of the greenhouse from the profile pipe will have a lot of weight.
• The material bends poorly, which complicates the creation of a design of a certain shape.
• Profiles are not cheap, but pay off due to the long service life.

How to choose a profile pipe

Profiles are coated with polymer paint or zinc. The first option is cheaper in cost, but over time, the top layer may peel off. This will not only deprive the greenhouse of its neat appearance, but also lead to corrosion.

Thanks to the galvanized coating, the pipes will not rust, they are not afraid of sudden changes in temperature. That is why, choosing profiles for a greenhouse or greenhouse, it is recommended to give preference to them. Range of steel profiles

Types of greenhouses and greenhouses from a profile pipe

Consider a few basic ones:

• Arched. They have the shape of an arc. Such greenhouses quickly enough gather, well resist strong gusts of wind. Thanks to the arched shape, they perfectly transmit light, suitable for growing light-loving plants.

• Arrows (Droplet). They are similar to the previous view, but the top is more elongated, with a pointed end. Such greenhouses are resistant to warping and warping. Due to the special structure of the roof, snow immediately rolls down from it, which prevents damage under its weight.

• Pyramidal. The walls are inclined inward at a slight angle and connected at the top. Thanks to this form, the structure withstands strong gusts of wind; snow does not accumulate on its roof. In the morning and evening, the sun's rays penetrate well, and in the midday sun the edges reflect them, which prevents overheating of the plants.

• Gable (gable) or tent greenhouses. Such designs do not have curved parts, which facilitates the construction process. The shape resembles an ordinary house with a ridge on the roof. In such greenhouses, you can even plant high crops. Keep in mind that you will need more material to create. A two-slope can be a greenhouse.

• Slippery. One side of this design is higher, so the roof is tilted. Usually such greenhouses (and this is a hotbed, not a greenhouse) are mounted to another building, for example, to a house, a gazebo, etc. That is, one side they get adjacent. This saves space on the site, consumables.

• Khlebnitsa (Fedorov's hotbed). Designed for planting low-growing plants. The doors of such a greenhouse open like a bread box, hence the name. This provides free access to crops.

Helpful information! It is recommended to install the arched construction for the spring-autumn period. In winter, snow can accumulate on it, resulting in damage. If it is planned to use the greenhouse year-round, it is better to give preference to those species on the roof of which a snowdrift will not form (for example, lancet or pyramidal).

Drawings of greenhouses and greenhouses from a profile pipe, diagrams with dimensions

When drawing up a diagram of a greenhouse or a greenhouse from a profile, it is necessary to rely on its length.

For example, the elements of the arch structure should be located at a distance of 1 m from each other. Thus, for a 3 * 6 greenhouse from a square pipe, six profiles in the form of arcs will be needed. The standard profile length is 6.1 m. It will make a semicircle with a radius of 1.9 m.

Helpful information! If you plan to make the walls of the structure from cellular polycarbonate, it is better to choose a greenhouse height of 1.85-1.9 m with a width of the lower part of 3.7-3.8 m. This will help to save on materials, because standard sheathing sheets 6 * 2.1 m.

When constructing a greenhouse with a gable roof, the height of the walls should be 1.7-2 m and a width of 4 meters (with a slope of 30-45 degrees, length 2.25-2.45 m). Jumpers on this design are mounted in the upper part of the arches and in the middle of the slopes (2 pcs on each side). The back wall must be secured with a pair of crossbars. On the facade there is an opening for the door. Based on its size, the amount of additional material is calculated.

Best for a greenhouse is a profile with a wall thickness of 2 mm, with a section of 4 * 2 cm or 4 * 4 cm. It is highly durable. Pipes 1-1.5 mm thick are suitable for horizontal screed.

The exact dimensions must be indicated on the drawing - length, width, height. Without accurate measurements to build a high-quality and durable design will not work.

Based on the size, the necessary amount of materials is purchased. It is important to consider that pipes should always be taken with a margin of 10% (if they suddenly become damaged during transportation or installation). First you need to make a drawing, then calculate the amount of material to build.

Step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse for their profile pipe and coating materials

Consider how to make the simplest arched structure. Before making a greenhouse, you need to think about the necessary tools in advance. Will be needed:

• spade for leveling the plot,
• drill for installation of racks,
• grinder for cutting pipes,
• screwdriver for mounting fasteners,
• pliers and a hammer,
• measuring tools (corner, level, tape measure),
• welding machine,
• hacksaw, if the walls are planned to be made of polycarbonate,
• wooden stakes and rope for marking the site.

It is recommended to install the greenhouse on sandy, dry soil so that there is no stagnation of moisture. The long side of the structure should face the south side so that the crops receive maximum light. Also, during installation, it is important to consider design features. So, for gable and arched greenhouses, the longitudinal axis should have a direction from north to south, a deviation of 15-20 degrees is permissible. And if, for example, you decide to build a simple greenhouse with a pitched roof - the ramp must be done to the south.

On the selected site, you need to make markings using pegs and rope. And also dig a trapezoidal trench into which to pour biofuel for quick heating of the soil.

Foundation

For a greenhouse from the profile, a columnar foundation will be enough:

Illustration	Actions
	Drill wells in the ground at the same distance from each other. Their diameter should be 1-1.5 cm larger than the circumference of the uprights.
	Place asbestos pipes inside. To fill in the gap between the pillars and the ground and tamp the sand-gravel mixture.
	Pour cement inside the pipes so that there are no voids. Place a metal plate or piece of reinforcement in concrete. In the future, they will become the connecting link between the foundation and the frame.

For the arched greenhouse, you can make a strip foundation, but it will take more time.

Bending pipes cold and hot step by step

To give the pipes an arc shape, you can contact the profile companies, they bent them on special equipment.

You can do this yourself in several ways. One of their technologies is called cold. For cold bending of pipes, a spring with a diameter so that it can be inserted inside the profile is used. Due to the spring property, it turns out to change the cross section and change the shape.

If the profile is less than 1 cm, filler for it is not required. When the pipe is thicker, rosin or sand should be poured inside. In winter, you can pour water and wait until it freezes.

Another technique is called hot because produced by heating profiles. It can be used at any time of the year. It is recommended for pipes with a large thickness. To carry it out you will need a manual, factory or stationary pipe bender.

Step by Step Actions:

1. Make a pair of caps for both ends of the profile. Their length should be 10 times greater than the width of the base.The wide part in this case is 2 times the circumference of the pipe hole.
2. In one plug, make gutters for gas to escape when heated.
3. Heat the bend of the pipe.
4. Sift and dry river sand. Anneal on a sheet of metal to 150 degrees, until the moisture has completely evaporated.
5. On one side of the profile, install a plug without gutters.
6. From the other end, pour calcined sand, periodically tapping on the walls so that it is compacted.
7. Fasten the second plug.
8. Mark with chalk the place of the fold.
9. To fix in a vice, having imposed on a template.
10. Warm the metal to a red state and bend it with a smooth, clear motion.
11. Compare with the template, if everything is correct, you can remove the cap and shake out the contents.

Note! If the profile has welds, after bending this line should be located on the side. It is undesirable to bend along it.

Arc Installation

If the greenhouse is planned to be collapsible, it is recommended to use bolts for fasteners. Sashes are also fixed with the help of them (by the way, they are often used for hotbeds, for example, the design of the Butterfly or the Bread box). If the structure is stationary, its elements are best welded.

It is necessary to cut the racks, to which the arcs are further fixed. Planks that will connect bent pipes are also needed. The joints are fixed by crabs or a welding machine. The frame is placed on the foundation and is attached to metal plates or fittings.

Helpful information! If there are welds, it is recommended that they be repaired with a primer. This will make the design more reliable.

Sheathing

The following cladding materials can be used:

Type of coating	Advantages	disadvantages	Material cost
Polyethylene film	Is cheap Ideally mounted on a zigzag profile.	It quickly deteriorates (service life is about 2 years). It spoils under the influence of ultraviolet rays, easily breaks. Poorly transmits light, weakly insulates.	From 30 rub. per linear meter or from 3000 rubles. per roll (1 m * 100 m)
Non woven fabric	The service life is longer than the film, about 5 years. It passes sun and moisture well, protects crops from aggressive environmental influences.	It is easily torn, for example, under strong gusts of wind.	20-150 rub. / l.m (depending on thickness)
Glass	Available in many areas after repair. It transmits sunlight well, protects against frost and retains heat inside. In such a greenhouse grow tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, etc. Fire resistance (for those structures that are heated additionally). Low sensitivity to temperature extremes. Easy to care.	The complexity of installation. In hot weather it lets in too much light, in cool weather it cools the greenhouse very much. A lot of weight.	Window glass - from 800 rubles. per sq.m.
Polycarbonate	Solid polymer with high strength and light weight. Provides diffused light, retains heat well, easy to install, fire resistant, durable. Perfectly protects against UV rays.	High price. The rate of thermal expansion.	From 1000 rub. per sheet

Note! If the structure will stand even in winter without a canopy, it is recommended to use polycarbonate sheets for cladding, as they support the weight of snow.

Frame mount

Consider several options for attaching various materials to the frame of the greenhouse.

For example, fastening with a galvanized profile Zig-zag has become very popular for film:

This mount consists of two elements: the profile itself and the steel spring.

Advantages of the mounting method:

• Simplicity and speed of installation,
• Resistance to wind loads,
• Possibility of fixing the film in arched sections, sections of greenhouses with side opening,
• The ability to attach a second film.

Consider the method of fastening on the example of polycarbonate:

1. Set the sheet so that the film is located outside. The junction of the cladding and the frame should be sealed or laid with sealing tape.
2. Drill holes for fasteners at low speed. Their diameter should be about 1 cm, and the distance from each other 10-15 cm. Fasten the sheet with bolts at all corners. To prevent their tips from breaking off, indent 3-4 cm from the edge.
3. If the size of the polycarbonate sheet is wider than the distance between the posts, it must be cut off. Do this so that the joint is exactly in the middle.
4. Installation can be done using a special profile. Then the fasteners need to be fixed on the frame with screws and only then place the polycarbonate in the resulting openings. Sheets to be mounted butt to the previous. Gaps to seal or lay a damper laying, for example, rubber.
5. After installation, remove the protective film.

Home-made greenhouse or greenhouse from shaped pipes will help to save money, because in the store, such designs are quite expensive. In order for everything to work out perfectly, it is important to first create an accurate drawing with all measurements and clearly follow it. Structures from profiles do not require a solid foundation, such as a gazebo or a house. Therefore, the erection does not take much time.

Arched

In greenhouses of this kind, the lower parts of the elements of the frame of the walls are vertical, and the upper ones are curved into an arc, closed by an arch. Between themselves, these elements are connected into a single design with horizontal ties. Arched greenhouses (in the photo below) are more resistant to wind loads, quickly assembled with their own hands. They let a lot of light into the inner space, so they are more suitable for growing light-loving crops.

Arrowhead

The cross section of the lancet greenhouse has the shape of a slightly curved arch, elongated in height and pointed at the end. A correctly designed structure of this type is resistant to deformation like a classic arched greenhouse, but due to the elongated shape of the upper part, it better resists the snow load. Snowdrifts do not accumulate on the ridge: snow quickly rolls down under its own weight.

Pyramidal

The pyramidal greenhouse is a compact, unusual type of greenhouse with a lot of advantages. It is a structure whose walls have a triangular shape, are located with an inclination inward at a slight angle and converge at the top at one point.

The greenhouse pyramid is very stable. She can stand in case of strong gusts of wind, in snowfall. Snow simply does not linger on its surfaces.

Due to the inclined position of the faces in the greenhouse, there is a special system of natural lighting. The sun's rays are almost not reflected from their surface in the morning and evening, but penetrate inside. During the midday heat, on the contrary, they reflect their direct contact, protecting plants from overheating.

Which view is better to choose

For year-round use, it is better to build an arched greenhouse with your own hands. Due to its streamlined shape, natural precipitation does not accumulate on its surface. It is resistant to wind gusts, well lit, has fewer connections. In addition, this configuration allows for better heat storage to additionally install doors and vents for ventilation.

The gable greenhouse is more convenient for use in the spring-summer period. It provides enough light, but in winter its roof needs to be cleared of snow.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a homemade greenhouse from a profile pipe are obvious:

1. They are able to withstand high mechanical loads.
2. Well lit, let in enough light to grow diverse crops.
3. Durable The service life of such a greenhouse is at least 30 years.
4. Resistant to fire.
5. Are mobile. They can be moved, quickly disassembled with your own hands and reassembled, reduced or added to the number of sections.
6. The metal profile is an affordable material. It can be bought at many hardware stores.
7. It is easier to attach communication elements from inside the structure to the profile pipe, for example, automatic irrigation systems, additional heating and lighting.

But such designs have disadvantages:

1. High cost of profile rental.
2. A sufficiently large weight of the frame, which requires the construction of a solid foundation.
3. Poor flexibility.

What pipes fit and how many will they need

Profile pipes are made with a protective coating of polymer paint or zinc. Painted is cheaper, but over time, the paint may peel off and the steel profile will begin to rust. Galvanized profile pipes are more resistant to corrosion and temperature extremes, they are more suitable for building a greenhouse with your own hands, inside of which initially a high humidity mode is assumed.

The lower frame and the arches of the frame of a small homemade greenhouse measuring 6 by 3 m can be welded from a profile pipe 20 × 40 mm, lintels from a square profile with a cross section of 20 × 20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5–3 mm.

How many meters of pipe do you need for a 6-meter greenhouse

When calculating the number of profiles for the construction of an arched greenhouse, you need to take into account that the arches are installed in increments of 1 meter. Thus, you will need:

1. For the base of the frame: 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 = 18 m.
2. The vertical parts of the walls (0.75 m), taking into account the depth (0.25 m) in the foundation structure: (0.75 + 0.25) * 14 pcs. = 14 m.
3. Arched wall elements. The circumference of the circle is determined by the formula c = 2πr. The value of the radius of the circle is equal to the difference between the values ​​of the height of the greenhouse (2.1 m) and the straight section of the walls (0.75 m). The length of the arcuate elements from the profile pipe will be half the circumference. The total number of profiles for the manufacture of all arcs will be: (2.1-0.75) * 3.14 * 7 pcs. = 29.67 m.
4. Horizontal guides: 6 * 4 pcs. + 2.8 * 2pcs = 29.6 m.
5. Spacer: 1.5 * 4pcs = 6 m.
6. Doors from two ends: (0.95 * 2 + 2 * 2) * 2 * 2 = 23.6 m.

Total for assembling the frame with your own hands, the total length of the profile hire is 18 + 14 + 29.67 + 29.6 + 6 + 23.6 = 120.87 m. Given that the rental length is 6.05 m, you should buy at least 20 whips.

Instructions on how to build a greenhouse from a professional pipe with your own hands

If you plan to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, then pre-calculate its cost, specify the types of work. So you will be sure that you have enough finances and skills to complete the project.

Choosing a place to build, marking the territory

The following factors should be the criteria for choosing a place for a greenhouse from a professional pipe:

1. The geological composition of the soil. The foundation design depends on it. It is good if it is sandy soil in a dry place on a hill. The clay composition of the soil in the lowlands usually accumulates excess moisture, which significantly accelerates the corrosion processes in the supporting elements of the frame from the profile pipe. Excess moisture in the soil also negatively affects the roots of plants: they can rot.
2. Features of the relief. It is advisable to choose a site with a flat surface. On a flat surface, it is easier to ensure structural stability and even distribution of light within.
3. Illumination. One of the long sides of the greenhouse from the profile pipe should be turned to the south. This arrangement contributes to greater penetration of sunlight into the building. It can be a remote place where the shadow from the trees, apartment building or farm buildings will not fall on the greenhouse all day, and if so, only in the morning.

Drawings, schemes with dimensions

Do-it-yourself construction of even a small-sized greenhouse from a profile pipe should begin with design. The scheme will help to more accurately calculate the required amount of material.

Particular attention should be paid to drawing up a drawing of the end part of the greenhouse. The entrance door is located in it, it is desirable that its width be sufficient for the arrival of a standard garden cart. In the example, I presented a project for the design of an arched greenhouse from profile pipes.

Drawing of the front side:

Necessary tools and materials

To build a greenhouse from profile pipes with your own hands, you need a set of equipment:

• measuring tools: tape measure, square, building level, marker,
• welding machine,
• Bulgarian,
• screwdriver
• clamps
• shovel,
• paint brush.

To assemble the frame with your own hands, you need to prepare:

1. Profile pipe with a cross section of 20 × 40 mm for the manufacture of a supporting frame and arches.
2. Profile pipe with a cross section of 20 × 20 mm for horizontal connections.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Door hinges and latch handle.
5. Primer and paint for outdoor use.

As a covering material, you can take a plastic film, glass or polycarbonate. To build a foundation with your own hands, you need crushed stone, sand, concrete, reinforcement, roofing material, bitumen.

How to bend profile pipes for a greenhouse

To bend with your own hands the profile pipes that make up the frame of the greenhouse, you can use different ways:

1. With pre-heating. For pipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm. To avoid deformation of the profile, the cavity of the pipe is filled with sand. To heat the bend of the pipe using a blowtorch or gas burner.
2. Cold bending. It is used for bending thin profile pipes.

Regardless of the bending method you choose, you will also need a radius template, one of the following tools or accessories:

1. Pipe bender. For bending profile pipes of a small cross-sectional area with your own hands, you can use a mechanical manual pipe bender. This is a construction of rollers arranged in the shape of an isosceles triangle. The workpiece is placed between the rollers and fixed with a clamping screw. To bend profile pipes of large cross-section, a hydraulic or electromechanical unit is needed that does not require excessive muscular effort.
2. Thick spring. It should be of such a diameter that it can freely enter the cavity of the profile pipe.
3. Metal or concrete bending plate. The plate has special holes where bolts with nozzles are inserted to adjust the bending radius. Bolts serve as stops for bending the profile pipe with your own hands.

You can use a grinder. With its help, you need to make several cuts on the future arc for 2/3 of the pipe section. The cuts should be at the same distance and equal in depth. The profile pipe is bent along them, and then the incisions are welded.

Step-by-step construction technology

For those who decide to build a small greenhouse from a profile pipe on the site with their own hands, I offer step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. I called it “Site Preparation and Layout.” Clean the selected area from debris and stones, uproot the stumps and level it. The platform should be strictly horizontal or with a small difference, but not more than 10 cm. You can do the marking yourself with the help of wooden pegs and a rope.

Remember to check if the diagonals are the same size.

Pegs need to be driven into the ground at the corners of the structure, pull a rope between them, thus marking the perimeter of the greenhouse. Then you need to remove the turf layer from the marked area, dig it up, carefully breaking the clods, level the surface with a rake.

Step 2. At this stage, we will build a support structure with our own hands. For a greenhouse from a profile pipe, the best option would be a reinforced concrete strip foundation:

1. Open a trench around the perimeter of the building with a depth of 40-50 cm, a width of 30 cm, and seal its bottom.
2. Fill the bottom with crushed stone to a height of 10 cm, and from above by 10 cm with sand with spilled water and layer-by-layer compaction.
3. Lay a layer of roofing material or film on top of the sand cushion. If this is not done, then the sand will draw water from the fresh concrete and prevent it from gaining the necessary strength.
4. Assemble the formwork. It should protrude above the ground by 15–20 cm.
5. In the formwork, connect the reinforcing cage.
6. Pour into concrete formwork М150 or М200. In places of fastening of arcs in concrete, before it hardens, insert mortgages from reinforcement or steel profile 40 × 40 mm.
7. About a week later, when the concrete gains its initial strength, the foundation should be covered with a waterproofing material on top of the perimeter. Coat the side surfaces with hot bitumen.
8. Fill the trench with soil.

It will take 28 days for concrete to dry completely, after which you can fix the arches with your own hands.

Step 3. The next step will be the installation of the frame:

1. To make arches: bend arcs, weld vertical sections to their ends. Mount the door frame on the end arches.
2. Put the support frame from the profile pipe with your own hands, weld it to the mortgages in the foundation.
3. Attach the end arch to the frame first, checking the verticality with a plumb line. For fastening I use a welded or bolted type of connection.
4. Then, sequentially put the remaining arches in place, connect them together with strapping elements starting from the upper crossbar.
5. Two end bridges are the last to be mounted obliquely. The lower corner of the door is connected to the upper bar of the side trim. This will enhance the structural bearing capacity.

Now you can weld the hinges and hang the door, install a latch handle on it.

Step 4. After mounting the greenhouse frame, it is sheathed with polycarbonate or polyethylene. First, they close the end arches with polycarbonate with their own hands, cutting out the doors and windows, and then the rest of the structure.

The sheets are overlapped so that the joints are supported by the profile.

Please note that the polycarbonate sheet must be:

1. Mounted to the sun side with a protective coating against ultraviolet radiation.
2. Bent in a direction perpendicular to the channels. This technique will avoid creases in the plastic.
3. It is placed in such a way that the hollow channels in its structure are in a vertical position. This is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the pores of the panels and mold does not occur.

Do-it-yourself self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket are used to attach polycarbonate to the frame of the greenhouse. The hole in the casing is drilled larger than the diameter of the fastener itself, thus leaving a gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the polycarbonate. The ends of the sheets should be glued with a sealing, perforated tape, and at the edges install special end caps. At the end of the work, remove the protective film from polycarbonate.

How to sheathe a greenhouse from a profile pipe with plastic wrap, you can watch the video:

Possible errors during construction and ways to fix them

The main errors occur when bending arcuate elements. Therefore, it is better to buy ready-made arches, and mount the rest of the frame with your own hands.

1. Incorrect installation of polycarbonate, due to which the transparency of the material is lost, and condensate accumulates on its internal walls. Such a sheet must be removed from the frame from the profile pipe, blow out the cells with compressed air, or rinse with dirt with a soap solution. After it dries, install in place by gluing the ends with a sealing tape.
2. To protect the structure with a gable roof from strong snow loads from the inside of the greenhouse from the profile pipe, additional supports must be placed under the ridge and side walls.

Conclusion

Work on the design and construction of a greenhouse from shaped pipes is quite possible even for an ordinary summer resident. Therefore, the decision to refuse to buy a finished greenhouse, having done everything with your own hands, will be reasonable.

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Profile pipe for building a greenhouse - all the pros and cons

A profile pipe has a square or rectangle in cross section, according to the manufacturing method it can be:

• hot and cold formed
• electrowelded, electrically welded cold-deformed.

The shape, size, characteristics of the pipes are regulated by part 8639-82 and 8645-68 GOST. For the manufacture of shaped pipes, different metals are used, the most popular in the private and commercial construction of greenhouses are steel products with an anti-corrosion protective coating, moisture-proof. The strength of the material is ensured by 4 stiffeners, which bear the main load from the entire structure of the greenhouse.

Physico-mechanical characteristics of the profile pipes make it possible to produce a high-quality, reliable frame. To extend the service life, to preserve the aesthetics and integrity of the greenhouse, after mounting the welded structure, it is necessary:

• thoroughly scrub with a hard brush from scale,
• abrasive to remove even invisible signs of corrosion,
• rinse with solvent
• primer
• to paint.

Good to know: Rust can be removed by treating lesions with vinegar essence. Work should be done with rubber gloves and a respirator.

The profile pipe in appearance resembles a wooden beam with a straight side. The form is convenient for fastening sheet material: polycarbonate, glass, film-frame elements - this greatly facilitates the manufacture of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands.

The main types of professional pipes for the manufacture of greenhouses

Expediency and size selection

The price of a profile pipe depends on the quality of steel, dimensions, wall thickness - this is not a cheap "pleasure", so it is important to choose the optimal material. It is rational to build a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands from a profile with ribs 40 * 20, 40 * 40 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, for horizontal screed, you can use pipes 20 * 20 mm, wall thickness 1-1.5 mm.

The standard length of the trade pipe is 6.05 m, in order to minimize costs and avoid significant waste, it is necessary to determine the design of the greenhouse and its dimensions before starting construction.

Drawing of a greenhouse from a profile pipe 20 * 20 mm, the base is better to be made from rolled 40 * 20 mm

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile pipe - drawings and schemes of standard, ergonomic designs

The standard home-made greenhouse from a profile pipe is usually of three types:

• Attached to the house with a pitched or asymmetrical oval roof.
• Freestanding arched structure.
• A greenhouse is a house made of profile pipe with a gable roof.

Based on the given size of the pipe, the appropriate length of the building: 3,4,6,12 m, width, respectively: 2, 3, 4, 6 m. A convenient size for organizing two parallel beds 3-6 * 3 m, for three - 3- 12 * 4-6 m. In private construction, a greenhouse made of metal pipes with its own hands has a popular standard 3 * 6 m.

Drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe, with dimensions, on a strip foundation

The frame of the greenhouse from the profile pipe - drawings and calculations

Work in the greenhouse more often proceeds according to the principle: I straightened to see if it was straightened, so I could see if it was straightened. Therefore, it is important, in order to facilitate and maximize labor comfort, to correctly calculate the height of the structure. Optimally, if a person stands in full growth + 300-400 mm.

Detailed drawing of an arched building

The average ergonomic height of the arched greenhouse - 1.9-2.4 meters - this is essentially the bend radius of the polycarbonate sheet. We recall the formula for the circumference: L = π * D, where π - 3.14, D - diameter = 2 radii.

Suppose the height of a greenhouse from a professional pipe is 2 m, then L (circumference) = 3.14 * 4 = 12.56 m. We need half of this length - 12.56: 2 = 6.28 m. But this is not rational for using polycarbonate sheathing, it turns out that one sheet whose length is 6.0 m is not enough, you will have to grind a small strip, the same with the standard length of the pipe. To avoid unnecessary costs, it is necessary to reduce the height of the greenhouse, rationally if, N = 1.85-1.9 m, with a building width of 3.7-3.8 m.

The scheme of the greenhouse from the profile pipe, with your own hands such a design can be made practically without material waste

For a gable roof, the calculation of the height depends on the slope of the roof, for different regions, depending on wind and snow loads, usually the slope is 30-45 about. The convenient height of the straight wall is 1.7-2 meters to the lower edge of the rafters. Using an example, we calculate the total height of the greenhouse from the profile pipe to the ridge.

Suppose the slope of the gable roof is 30 °, the width of the greenhouse is 4 m. According to the Pythagorean theorem: c 2 = a 2 + in 2, where c is the hypotenuse (the length of one slope), and the leg is (perpendicular from the edge of the frame from the professional pipe to the middle) , in - leg (height from the ridge to the straight wall along the perpendicular). In our case: a = 4: 2 = 2 meters. From geometry: a leg lying opposite an angle of 30 ° is equal to half the hypotenuse. We compose the equation:

c = 2x, hence (2x) 2 = 2 2 + x 2, 4x 2 = 4 + x 2, 3x 2 = 4, x2 = 4: 3, x = √1.33 (3) = 1,154 m - this is the length hypotenuses, which means that the leg is at = 0.58 m, hence the total height of the greenhouse from the professional pipe: 2 + 0.58 = 2.58 m.

Production of a greenhouse from a profile pipe, drawing of a standard gable building

Note an important nuance, the roof slope should be 100-300 mm longer than the greenhouse itself, so its length = 1.154 + 0.1 (0.3) = 1.25-1.45 m - this must be taken into account when cutting the profile pipe for truss system of the greenhouse.

About the entrance

The entrance to the greenhouse is best done from the front side, the door height is 1.9-2.1 m, width is 700-800 mm, for convenient bringing in pots with seedlings and tools. It is recommended to attach a small vestibule for winter greenhouses from a professional pipe, this will help to avoid the flow of cold air at the entrance.

The first way - at any time of the year

River sand is sifted, washed, dried. Fire is made, a metal sheet is put in - an improvised baking sheet, sand is poured with a thin layer and calcined until there is no evaporation from the surface.

The pipe is cut to the size of a greenhouse, one end is clogged with a wooden chopper, sandstone is poured inside, rammed by tapping when the cavity is filled to the edge, the second end is also tightly closed with a plug. With such a filler, the profile pipe easily bends with its own hands according to the template, without deformation.

The third method is simple, but you will need equipment

The pipe is cut in 2/3 by the grinder, the cuts should be located at the same distance from each other. The principle is simple: the steeper the bend of the greenhouse, the smaller the distance between the cuts. Next, the profile bends along a given radius and all the seams are hermetically sealed by welding.

Look at a useful idea on how to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse, the video shows in detail how to make a pipe bender yourself and make an arc of the right size.

How to weld a greenhouse from metal profile pipes - step by step instructions

For the construction of a greenhouse with their own hands, a galvanized profile pipe with ribs 40 * 20 mm is best suited for connecting parts 20 * 20 mm. Quality material has a zinc coating on the outside and inside. The galvanized profile pipe for greenhouses is very light, the frame can be moved or moved to another area, and a reliable protective coating prevents corrosion. For large structures use a galvanized steel pipe with reinforcement, can withstand loads of 1 m 2 up to 90 kg. According to GOST, a product made taking into account all technological requirements will last 2-3 decades. High-quality galvanization, even with mechanical damage: bends, dents, deformations, preserves the integrity of the coating, without cracks and scratches to the base.

Important: Frame parts for a greenhouse made of steel pipe without a protective coating are recommended to be assembled by welding. It is better to connect galvanized elements on a bolted connection and special docking elements, corners.

A greenhouse made of galvanized pipe 25x25, an example on the photo is how to properly mount the units of a collapsible design

How to weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands

According to the drawing, we do the detailing, cut the elements into size. We lay 2 layers of roofing material on the tape, along the perimeter we make piping from pipes, we weld them to the mortgages. We bend the parts according to the chosen method, set the arcs strictly perpendicular to the foundation and fasten to the harness. Recommended distance between arches is 900-1000 mm. On the front side, we shape the entrance aperture with a profile, on the other, we strengthen the design with transverse crossbars.

In the photo, how to assemble a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe 20x40 mm

Along the arch structure, we lay the crate from the profile 40 * 20, 20 * 20 mm, this will serve as the basis for the sheet covering material and strengthen the frame. We attach a plastic joint profile to the girders with screws, insert polycarbonate 6-12 mm thick into the grooves, fix with plugs. We fasten the edges to thermowells. For ventilation, air vents should be made. 2-3 is better on each side. Accessories for comfortable opening of openings can be bought in specialized stores.

In the end, a video instruction with detailed explanations on how to weld the frame of the greenhouse with your own hands, the base and walls.

Harness, reinforcement, rafter system, painting.

Features of frame structures from shaped pipes

With equal strength, they are 25% lighter than channels and I-beams. Designs from profile pipes have the following advantages:

• due to the square cross-section of the elements, the frame is highly resistant to deformation in all directions,
• a greenhouse or a greenhouse can be made independently, since installation skills do not require
• the assembled structure is able to withstand significant loads,
• the material does not rot, is not affected by mold and fungus,
• with the same weight, their bending resistance due to stiffening ribs is 30% greater than that of analogues of circular cross section,
• the design from a profile is steady against differences of temperatures,
• welded structures are more reliable than those assembled on bolts.

Over many years of operation, no flaws were found. However, in the northern regions, there were cases when the roof fastening could not withstand the weight of the raw snow. If regular roof cleaning is not possible, it is recommended to reduce the distance between the trusses.

Profile pipe selection

The range of steel profiles is represented by galvanized, painted, unprocessed products. Coated pipes are believed to last longer. However, in welded structures at the joints, the protective layer burns out, and the metal begins to rust quickly. Therefore, it is impractical to choose coated pipes. An unprocessed profile will be cheaper, and you can paint it yourself after completing the installation of the frame.

If the size of the greenhouse does not exceed 6 × 2 × 2 m, a pipe with a rib of 25 mm and a wall of 2 mm is enough. With large dimensions, a profile of 40 × 20 × 2 or 40 × 40 × 2 mm is selected. For horizontal screeds, a 20 × 20 × 1-1.5 mm pipe is suitable.

Design shape selection

Before you start creating a project, you should decide on the appearance of the greenhouse.

There are many different forms, but more often the following options are chosen:

1. Greenhouses with a gable roof allow the use of the entire area. By changing the angle of the roof, the issue of snow removal is easily solved. However, due to the complexity of the design, the consumption of materials increases.
2. Arched greenhouse is the most popular option. Not afraid of strong winds, easy and quick to assemble. But you need to regularly remove snow from it, and to bend profile pipes you will need a special tool.
3. A-shaped structures are similar to the removed gable roof. It is going to be done once or twice, and you can forget about problems with snow. But in such a greenhouse it is inconvenient to work, and even part of the land near the walls cannot be used.
4. In single-pitch greenhouses, the roof is made with a slope in one direction. Usually attached to the house and used for growing seedlings. The advantages and disadvantages are the same as the gable version.

In addition to these forms, exotic lovers build tent, dome and other wonders. The ripening speed of the crop and its quality in these mansions do not increase, and the complexity of installation and the cost of materials increase.

Dimensions and material quantity calculation

In order to properly weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe, when drawing up a project, you need to build on its length and the number of basic elements.Since the arcs must be installed after 1 meter, for example, for a 6-meter design, they will need seven pieces. The standard length of the profile pipe is 6010 mm. It is easy to calculate that from it it is possible to bend a semicircle with a radius of 1.9 meters. In order not to transfer expensive material to waste, you should choose a height of the arch structure of 1.85 - 1.9 m with a width in the lower part of 3.7 - 3.8 m. With these sizes, it is not necessary to trim its sheets with polycarbonate sheathing, the value of which is 6 × 2.1 m.

In order to use the pipes to the maximum when constructing a gable greenhouse, the height of its wall at a roof inclination angle of 30 - 45⁰ is chosen to be 1.7 - 2 m, and the width is 4 m. The length of the ramp will be 2.25 - 2.45 m. The jumpers are installed in the upper point of arcs and in the middle of the slopes. There are 2 pieces on each side. The back wall is reinforced with two crossbars. On the facade is placed a pipe (box, transom) for the door. Based on its size, the number of auxiliary profiles is calculated.

Greenhouse frame manufacturing

To weld an arch-shaped greenhouse from shaped pipes, you need to be able to bend them. This service can be provided at the metal warehouse. The option of acquiring an expensive special machine can not be considered. For making do-it-yourself arch pillars you will need a template of the desired radius. There are three ways to bend a pipe without deformation:

1. A piece of the desired length is jammed on one side with a wooden cork. Through the other end, carefully sifted sand is poured into the inside until it is completely filled. After installing the plug, the pipe is ready to bend on the template.
2. If the operation is performed in winter, water is poured instead of sand. When the frost turns it into ice, the profile can be bent.
3. On the pipe, at equal intervals, a grinder makes cuts with a depth of 2/3 of its thickness. The smaller the radius, the more cuts. After bending, all seams are welded.

Racks for gable structures can be assembled from cut to size segments, but it is better to make them from solid pipes. First, an angular cut is made in the middle of the lash and the profile is bent at an angle of 60 °. At a distance of 1700 mm from the ends, the same cuts are made allowing bending of the pipe by 30⁰. If the gaps are large, pieces of wire are laid in them during welding.

Front and rear racks with welded cross members, vents, door are installed in the first place. They must be plumbed strictly perpendicularly, otherwise distortions of the whole structure are possible. On a concrete foundation, they are welded to the mortgages, and attached to the wooden base with metal corners. After installing the intermediate racks, the frame is strapped with ties.

Doors and vents

For effective ventilation of a 3 × 6 m greenhouse, it is necessary to install 3 to 4 40 × 120 cm air vents. Their layout should be provided at the design stage so as not to adapt to the spans of the finished frame. Vent windows are best installed in the upper part of the greenhouse on the side walls.

Preparation begins with cutting a rectangular piece of polycarbonate from the skin. It is advisable to get into the opening between the elements of the frame, but it is enough and close to the horizontal cross member. According to the size of the sheet, a frame for a window leaf is made from a corner or profile. Polycarbonate is fastened with self-tapping screws, they are hinged to the upper corners. A piece of chain is welded from below, with which the window will be fixed in the open state.

After deburring, the edges of the polycarbonate are glued with tape. Then you need to insert the window into place and make sure that nothing interferes with its movement. After checking, the free parts of the hinges are attached to the cross member.

The door is assembled using the same technology, but the frame is reinforced with one or two crossbars. It is inserted into the prepared pipe during welding of the frame. If you plan to use a garden trolley, the width is 1 m; if not, 0.6 m is enough.